![]() One good thing, parts are still available. I would try and figure out some measurements on them and either plan on replacing the pads or welding on some grouser bars, your choice. One thing to note, those track pads look like they are very worn down. I believe repairs are expensive on those transmissions. All 6 bolts in the track frame and the 3 bolts into the frame rails should be present.ģ.Probably. The cross bar is known for bolts being lost/broken and no being replaced or having been welded and causes a structural failure. Shifting gears 1-4 though I don't think you can. I think that should have a H-L-R transmission. I think the bolts have tendency to back out and cracks can happen. Sometimes you may have to move some things to get to what you want, just like anything.Ģ. Non current John deere says 14,400 lbs straight from their website.ġ. I think you are a bit heavy on the weight though. ![]() I put some hours into a straight 550 John deere and a few more in the seat. ![]() Same as the big big brother of my 1020D, the 4020, and I am sure many other john applications. As I have shown, I have a 1020D with a 3 cylinder diesel, and this old thing has essentially the exact same motor, but a 4 cylinder. I read about some "shift on the fly models" being troublesome and expensive to fix?ĥ. This is a "C" model, so it should have a standard clutch and mechanical transmission. If glazed over it can be quite expensive and labor intensive to repair.Ĥ. Others have said smurfs must have built these at the factory due to their unfriendly working environments.Ģ.Transmission case cracks can happen due to their poor structural design.ģ.Wet clutches. Brutally honest, things to look for, and test? The holy internet say this thing weighs almost 18k? Is that true?įrom my research, this is what I have heard about these old girls but I am no expert!!! Clearly.ġ. I know free doesn't mean take it, but any knowledge or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Not so much for my business plan, but for the family farm, and who knows really. With that being said, here is my equipment update. I also added thread locker to the set screw so it would not back out.Hope everyone is doing well with what is going on, etc. The stub sticking out of the back cover is pretty short, so I took a 4-1/2 inch grinder and cut a flat spot on your 21 spline shaft so the set-screw for the adapter has something flat to screw onto, as well as not slip off from. ![]() To get it to 540 6 spline, you can either change one half of your yolks out on all your PTO shafts to 21 spline, OR, buy a $16 dollar 21 spline/6 spline adapter. That will give you a PTO with 21 splines. ![]() You will want the plate super, super clean so the gasket-goop sticks and does not leak oil, but then bolt it on. You just slide the cover on with winch drive shaft until is slides onto the tail shaft of the transmission. That cover has to come off, then you bolt on a new cover that has a winch drive with coupler roll pinned to it. I paid $268 for the parts for the PTO and fabricated my own 3 point hitch.įor the PTO, you just have to unbolt the rear end plate that is located under the fuel tank, and in front of the rear end. It is not hard, nor expensive if you go with used parts. I added a 3 point hitch and PTO to my 1988 John Deere 350D. ![]()
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